Posts Tagged ‘3-way’

So after weeks of playing,printing, and busting buttons  I think what I ended up is with some acceptable buttons, here are the layout of my first KeyPad Linc

These were done using a InkJet, I still need to try using a Color Laser to see.  Since I got this one off of ebay it was only the 6 key’s which I got the conversion kit off of SmartHome for $5 to 8 bottons.

The Etched buttons do look better but a bit costly.  Here is the breakdown

8 Button Keypadlinc

Color Kit, which changes the color of the LED behind the button

6 to 8 Button Conversion kit or new buttons if you break one. 🙂

Here is the low down,

1st  – Controls the load on the switch which is in my hallway

2nd – The Kitchen Main light

3rd – The Lights inside the Garage

4th – A group which controls all outside lights, (Garage, flood lights, back lights, entrance etc.)

5th- Not linked to any device but when pressed the PC will turn off all the lights in 2 min’s and set the house state to off, which includes bumping up the thermostat to 80 Degrees.

6th- Linked to my I/O Link to open/monitor the garage.

7th -My Children s room both have a main light and a night light switch, this button is linked to both of them, only thing is the Main Switch has a on – level of  0 which causes only the night light to turn on. The best way for this is to link them manually then go back the the program for Smarthomenet’s and change the turn on code to 0.

8th -Linked to my T1700 Thermostat.  Its linked by setting your thermostat to the desiered state then link like any other switch.  Very simple and clean.  I also link this button back to my PLC so I know its been pressed.

In my hallway I have a good ‘ol three way switch this is how I changed it. Just like in my previous entry, you can have switches controlling other switches by creating scenes. So a 3 way switch is basically that. Two switches controlling each other.

In 3 way switches you have a primary and secondary, the primary is the one which actually carries the load to the light fixture. The secondary just follows. But you may find the case (like me) where the secondary switch box doesnt have any power, since in traditional switches the power is fed from the primary.

Since there are a two wires connecting the primary to secondary (known as the traveler) we will jump the black wire to the line and use it to power the secondary switch. In my case it was easy to find the traveler wires since 1st it will be in a strand with 2nd traveler and it wont be with the line or neutral.

Once setup, and power ‘on’ you link both of them to each other and create a ‘scenes’ and each dimmer switch holds plenty of them, So you can with one switch control all the others (without needing a computer) , but not only turn on how about turn on to a certain level, and even control the ramp rate (Which is how fast the light turns on) – A very neat effect!. And presto you have created your virtual 3 way switch, the response is very fast. And technically you can add more if you like. I cant imagine a 10 way switch. 🙂 but technically you can do it, all this without a dedicated computer.

Here is the wiring diagram off the Smarthome page for it.


As for reading them in the program I just look for one of them, since eventually both will respond.

See ya